24 hours in Split
There is so much to say about Split – the city which was once under the rule of the emperor Diocletian, today is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe and the main international gathering of party animals thanks to the Ultra Europe Music Festival. And let’s not forget the TV show the world’s gone crazy for, ‘Game of Thrones’ which popularized the Diocletian’s palace where some of the scenes were shot. The list of things which make Split so special is quite long, so let’s go for a mini walking tour of Split in one day!
09:00 – Rise and shine! Don’t skip your breakfast, since you’ll be needing energy for walking and sightseeing for the most of the day. Go to local bakeries like Prerada for delicious and cheap pastries – don’t forget to try burek (typical Balkan meat pie). It might seem odd to eat such heavy food so early, but believe, no one will care. Or if you want something light, go to the fruit and vegetable market called Pazar and try to bargain for a free apple from grannies. After grabbing something to eat, take your morning coffee at one of numerous cafes and bars in the city core (for example, on Pjaca Square). The ongoing joke about the cafes is that there are so many of them that locals refer to a cafe bar instead of a street when explaining the direction to someone.
Pjaca Square
11:00 – We’re sure you would like to stay and sit all day drinking your coffee (like the locals do) but it’s time to explore the city. First stop is the main square, the famous Peristyle. Now, people often get lost or don’t know how to find it, so the easiest way to reach it is either from Riva through Diocletian’s basements or heading south down the stairs from the statue of Gregory of Nin. Once you arrive at the Peristyle, take a photo with Roman legionaries. Every day during summer, exactly at noon, there is the change of guards and “the emperor Diocletian” comes out to greet his people, so don’t miss to see him! Peristyle is a good starting point since the Tourist Info Centre is located right at the square in a former chapel. Here you can get useful info and a free city map. Check out St. Domnius cathedral – the most iconic sight of Split. The cathedral dates back to the 4th century, which makes it the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world. The entrance fee costs 15 kn (~ 2€) and if you wish to climb up the Bell tower it will cost you additional 15 kn. You really don’t want to miss that kind of spectacular panoramic view.
St Domnius Cathedral, entrance to Bell Tower
13:00 – Instead of proceeding to the basements, climb up the small stairs that lead to the Vestibule – the outer entrance to the emperor’s chambers where Diocletian kept the statues of Roman gods. Vestibule is an atypical dome because it has a hole on top which gives it perfect acoustics, so you will have the opportunity to hear traditional ‘a capella’ singing groups called klape. Behind Vestibule you will find the Ethnographic museum of Split which demonstrates the former life of the people of Split, their customs and clothes. What makes this museum unique is the fact that the location of the museum used to be the bedroom of the emperor Diocletian, making it the most intimate part of the Palace. The entrance ticket costs 15 kn.
Seen that small passage on the right side of Peristyle? It leads you straight to the Jupiter’s Temple and the narrowest ‘street’ in the world called Pusti me proc’ (en. Let me pass by). Two people are not able to pass through the street at the same time, hence the name. Finally, you’ll arrive on a small square where you will find several restaurants/pizzerias for a quick lunch.
14:00 – If there’s one thing Dalmatians are great at, then it must be the food. Whichever place you choose, you won’t be sorry. If you want something authentic but cheap, you should definitely go to Kantun Paulina fast food and try the best cevapi in Split. Check also Toto’s Burger Bar which offers a great variety of delicious burgers, salads and soups. On the Square of Radic brothers (commonly known as the Fruit Square) you will find Zinfandel and La Bodega bar where you can order a fine prosciutto and cheese plate and a bottle of wine for true enjoyment. And they’re also a good hideout from hot summer sun.
Fruit Square (Radic Brothers Square)
15:00 – Now go back to Peristyle and down the stairs to The Diocletian Palace Substructures or, as the locals like to call them, the ‘basements’ . What once used to be a place for disposing garbage (only two centuries ago the basements were full of garbage up to the top), today is a very lively tourist attraction. You can buy typical Dalmatian souvenirs and if you want to further explore the ‘basements’, you will need to pay extra 40 kn (for students 20 kn). Game of Thrones fans, here’s your chance to actually visit Daenerys’ Throne room and her dragons’ lair!
Basement Halls of Diocletian Palace
16:00 – And we’re on Riva, one of the most popular promenades in the world. If it is warm and sunny, expect to see crowded Riva and bars, especially during the summer. And you will most likely get stopped by restaurant bookers every 10 metres, so prepare for that. To really feel the vibe of Riva, come during December when it becomes a Christmas fair where you can drink mulled wine and eat delicious fritule pastry. In case you find a free spot in some of the outdoor cafés, sit, order yourself a coffee or a beer and enjoy the view, the sun, and you will figure out why locals like to do that.
18:00 – After sunny Riva, head to the west where you will see a fountain and famous Prokurative square and proceed straight to Matejuska, old fisherman’s port where during summer nights young people gather, drink and sing. Maybe 20 metres after Matejuska, on your right you will see narrow stairs which will lead you to the viewpoint of Marjan hill. And if you’re feeling particularly adventurous, you can even climb all the way to the top.
Riva waterfront in Split
20:30 – Time for dinner! In case you still want to try some typical Croatian dishes, go to the restaurant Fife (on Matejuska) for beef in sauce with gnocchi (called pasticada) or if you prefer seafood, don’t miss out on black risotto with cuttlefish or grilled squids.
23:00 – The best way to end your day is by sipping cocktails by the beach, right? At the end of the railway (by the ferry port), on your left you will see the passage to Bacvice beach, the most famous beach in Split. It is the only sand beach in Split and during the day it is really crowded with tourists and locals, who go there to play a special kind of ball game called picigin. At the ground level of the promenade by the beach, you can find several bars and restaurants and at the top you can check some of Split’s wildest nightclubs like Tropic club, Bacvice club and many more. For those more laid-back, Legends bar is the perfect pick – jazz, blues and rock n’ roll bar with the ‘80’s atmosphere. Or simply buy a few beers and go sip them at Ovcice beach which is right after Bacvice and hang out with the locals. Whichever option you choose, the fun is guaranteed!
If you plan on visiting Split, you can reach it by bus from the airport, and if you want to continue your journey outside Split, check our article on 10 day trips from Split. To get around Split, or maybe shop in local shopping centres, check the bus transportation in Split. Need to find bus terminal or train station? Find here all the info about buses to and from Split, as well as the most popular routes.
